Kampot Pepper Cacio e Pepe with Mushrooms

Cacio e pepe has a reputation for being fussy, and it's mostly earned. When you make buttered noodles, the cheese is really just seasoning. Here, the pecorino and starchy water have to become the whole sauce, and if the pasta is too hot, the cheese has a tendency to sieze into clumps before it gets there.

The fix I use comes from Flavio de Maio of Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome: blend the pecorino and pepper with a little cold water into a smooth paste first, then toss it with the hot pasta off the heat, adding cooking water a splash at a time until it turns glossy. Cook the pasta in less water than you usually would so what you reserve is cloudy with starch, because that's what holds the sauce together.

I love a classic cacio e pepe, but after a few forkfuls it can start to feel heavy. Mushrooms balance it out. Their earthy flavour is a good foil for the sharp, salty pecorino, and they turn a simple pasta into a proper dinner. Use whatever mushrooms you can find, but I love a mix: cremini for meatiness, shiitake for their savoury punch, and oyster mushrooms for their frilly edges, which brown beautifully in the pan.

Brown the mushrooms in batches so they sear instead of steam, but take them out of the pan while they're still juicy. I add a bit of butter and garlic to the mushrooms at the end, so the garlic stays sweet and the butter doesn't scorch between batches.

The pepper matters more here than most places, so it's worth using a good one. I use Kampot black pepper from Cambodia, which has a protected designation governing how it's grown, dried and sorted. It's noticeably more aromatic than most black pepper, with a cool, almost herbal edge that holds its own against the cheese. You can learn more about it here. Most of it goes into the paste, where it seasons every strand. Save the last teaspoon to crack over the bowls, where the aroma is brightest. 

It's a good one to keep in your back pocket for nights when the fridge feels bare and you could use a little low-effort comfort.

Kampot Pepper Cacio e Pepe with Mushrooms

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 lb (454 g) bucatini or spaghetti
1 lb (454 g) mixed mushrooms (cremini, shiitake, oyster), torn or sliced into rough pieces
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tbsp finely chopped garlic
4 tsp Kampot black peppercorns, coarsely cracked, plus more to taste
150 g (about 2 cups, box-grated) pecorino romano, plus more to serve
Salt, to taste

Method:

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil, using somewhat less water than you usually would and salting it slightly less than usual. You want starchy, concentrated cooking water at the end to help bind your sauce.
   
   
2. While the water heats, heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, and adding the remaining oil as needed, sauté the mushrooms for 3 to 4 min, until browned but still juicy. Transfer each batch to a plate. Turn the heat to low, add the butter and garlic and cook 1 minute, until fragrant. Return the mushrooms to the pan and toss to blend the flavours. Season with salt and set aside.
   
   
3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente according to package directions.
   
   
4. While the pasta cooks, put the pecorino and 1 tbsp cracked pepper in the bowl of a mini food processor or the container of an immersion blender. Add 2 to 3 tbsp cold water and blend until smooth, adding more water a spoonful at a time as needed.
   
   
5. Drain the pasta, reserving about 1½ cups cooking water, and return it to the pot, off the heat. Add the cheese paste in two additions, tossing constantly and adding pasta water a little at a time, until the sauce turns glossy and coats the pasta. Fold in the mushrooms and toss to combine.
   
   
6. Divide among bowls and finish with a little more grated pecorino and the remaining 1 tsp pepper.
   

Crack a few Kampot peppercorns next to whatever's in your grinder and you'll notice the difference straight away. If you're curious about the red and white too, all three are available on their own or together in a combination pack.